The waves yesterday were tiny but powerful enough to have a really nice surf...as I walked toward the water, Geoff took pictures of the amazing storm clouds moving over... The back line was waist deep so that was strange & unusual in itself -- It meant that I didn't have to paddle much to catch wave after wave.
The rainstorm moved over...between the cold rain water falling from the sky & the saltiness of the warm water I was surfing in, a cold wind came up & blew the spray and the rain into my face...The calm of hardly anybody being out because of the weather...the atmosphere of those out, hanging out in the shallow waters waiting for sets to come through...the sky, dark & gloomy & the light fading because it was getting late : these things all made the experience otherworldly.
...and then I had the sweet kiss of my lovely husband - like lovers meeting at their secret rendezvous - & the warmth of my car to enjoy as soon as I got back to the parking lot.
How wonderful it is to savor these moments.
1 comment:
Your description is so tempting...and idyllic in a moody and gloomy and quiet way. I think I need to start longboarding. Your new board is B.E.A.U.T.I.F.U.L. More posts please!
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